A Roller Coaster Ride to Shillong

Monday 15 November 2010

Wake up very early and tired, and are on the plane to Guwahati just after 6.00am. The flight is short and we arrive around 7.15am.

The next stage of the journey is by minibus and people-carriers up to Shillong, which is in the North East of India. Shillong is a football outpost, but produces some of the best players in India; four recently being selected for trials with Bayern Munich.

The journey to Shillong, 5,000 feet above sea level, takes us along the most dangerous road that I have ever travelled on. We wind along a ‘road’ that is part tarmac and part dust-track, taking in tremendous views of lush scenery and lakes. Wood and tin shacks line the roadside for the majority of the route. Lorries, cars and petrol tankers constantly jockey for position, taking turns at overtaking each other on blind bends and we count six wrecked vehicles littering the side of the road. We are escorted by armed guards once more, which makes the four hour journey much shorter than it could have been.  

Home for the next two days is Polo Towers Hotel and after a light lunch, we have a wander in to town to check out the stadium for tomorrow’s match. People wave and smile and we immediately feel comfortable in our new surroundings. The town is a delightful jumble of shops housed in huts and shacks, mixed with occasional western style shops. Traders in the local market are selling fresh fruit and vegetables, fish and meat. The butchers have goat carcasses hung up on display and the heads are available for purchase. As Westerners, this is something that we wouldn’t normally see, but it is a delicacy for the local people. The locals have much more of a Tibetan look. Shillong, being close to Nepal, home to Everest, the largest mountain in the world.

The stadium has a 30,000 capacity and the pitch for the game is hard with very little grass. It is unlikely that much football will be able to be played on the floor. The prices for the game have been pitched at about 150 Rupees (around £2) which is approximately five times the normal price for a match ticket, and around 2 days pay for an average worker in India.

After seeing the stadium, we have a wander round the shops and pick up a few bargains. Pashminas (Indian shawls) are 250 Rupees (around £3.50) and Converse trainers can be purchased for around £18. The team come down later on to snap them up and the delighted shop owner will have done record business today. 

We stop for a pint in the Sweety bar on the way back to the hotel, a small bar in the centre of town. It is dark but welcoming and we manage to find a table and order a round of drinks for thirteen that comes to just under £14. The electricity in the area fails and the lights go out, but luckily the bar owner has a battery lamp to hand that he brings over. I guess it must be a common occurrence.

After the evening meal there is a medical emergency as Gav Smith suffers an allergic reaction and has to have hospital treatment when his mouth and lips swell up. It appears that a fish ladle has been mistakenly put back into the chicken curry tray which has triggered it, Gav being allergic to fish. The hospital sorts him out for the princely sum of £3.

Tuesday 16^th November 2010

The game against Lajong Shillong kicks off at 2 p.m. but we are at the stadium 90 minutes before. The lads have a wander around and have pictures taken with the armed guards. Dolbs has decided to opt for a direct style of play for the game, to get the ball forward as quickly as possible and use our height advantage as much as we can. Del Dooley is drafted in for his Sheffield FC debut in central midfield. We dominate the first half, failing to score, but going close on numerous occasions. The game in India is virtually devoid of any form of physical interaction and the referee constantly blows up at the most minor of contact. The Lajong Coach refers to the need for Indian players and referees to travel abroad and experience the physical side of the game, otherwise Indian players will never be able to compete in Leagues such as the Premier League. The second half is more competitive and chances are spurned at both ends before a goal, with 15 minutes to go, secures a 1-0 win for Lajong. 

The attendance at the game must be a record for Sheffield FC with around 25,000 in the ground. I am invited to address the crowd after the match and announce that we would love to return if we were invited in the future. This receives a fantastic round of applause from the crowd.

Although we are disappointed, we have put up a fantastic showing against a team that is a professional club. Many of the local press and media are surprised that we are part-time and want to know why we are not in the Premier League.

The Government of Meghalaya has laid on an after match dinner for both teams and officials. The evening proves to be a wonderful one and the Government Minister’s speech refers to the unbelievable goodwill and publicity generated by the game. He hopes that we can form a longer term relationship and help to develop football in India and help Shillong compete at the highest level in India and in particular with the big Kolkata teams.

Once the speeches are concluded, the band provides great entertainment and Ryan Davis, on his birthday, assists with Bob Marley classics. The Minister is renowned for his love of the Beatles and also takes to the stage rattling off a couple of covers, to the cheers of the Lajong squad. The Sheffield players soon join in the cheering as Lee Walshaw goes up to add backing vocals.  

All in all, a great night and people here have realised what Sheffield FC is about; people and the love of the game.   

Tomorrow we leave Shillong and take the Roller Coaster ride down to Guwahati for the final leg of our trip. No doubt more adventures and excitement, and hopefully a first win for the team.